29/01/2025
What happens when you skip the game drives in favor of staying in one place? It can be daunting – the height of FOMO – to trade the chance of seeing the ‘big stuff’ to study birds and baboons instead. But sometimes the small, in-between moments can surprise you, even transform you. A few years ago, I had the opportunity to spend ten mindful days observing the rhythm of life at a waterhole in Mana Pools National Park. It was game-viewing with slowness, deliberation… decelerating to nature’s pace. I’m a person used to sitting still, used to quiet. So I was surprised when the first few days weren’t easy. My skin crawled with the decadence of all the sitting around. I realized being bored and alone with one’s thoughts is something that requires practice…even more so these days unfortunately. I kept a journal most days.
Slow safari series, 1 of 5: One feature is extraordinary in its ordinariness: the Combretum obavatum interspersed with the wooly caper bush that surrounds the pan forms a loose boundary between the water and the evergreen canopy behind this arena. With my beginner’s eye, I find this vegetation duo frustrating. The tough, spidery branches stretch out like dried witch’s fingers – grasping and unphotogenic. Animals and birds melt into it and out of sight like ghosts.
But as I sit and watch, I realize that is exactly the point. This scraggly scrub is a bastion of neutral sanctity, offering peace and protection to all creatures, night and day. Leopards and hyena slink away from defensive cow elephants by night. By day, trouble-stirring teenage baboons fling themselves into its interior, fleeing retribution from older siblings. Mother baboons desperately shove wide-eyed babies into its scratchy depths – shielding them from thundering dog baboons intent on infanticide….. cont in comments