01/11/2026
The Flamingos We Nearly Missed
We travelled from Gobabis towards the Nyae-Nyae Conservancy without really knowing what to expect. A Namibian friend had suggested we visit the area for its birdlife, but we were unsure how seasonal the sightings might be.
Using Garmin, we selected Large Baobab Community Camp as our destination and arrived hoping to find birds on the nearby pans. A community guide led us to two of them. The first was completely dry. At the second, the pump that normally maintained water levels had broken down and there was little birdlife to be seen.
When we asked where we might find waterbirds, our guide simply didn't know.
After spending just one night at the camp, we decided to continue towards Khaudum, believing that we were there at the wrong time of year. Before leaving, however, we stopped to refuel at Tsumkwe.
There, while chatting to a local resident, we received a simple piece of advice: follow the track south of the village and keep going. According to him, there was a large pan with plenty of birds.
With nothing to lose, we decided to investigate.
More than an hour later, after driving along sandy tracks rather than roads, we suddenly came upon an extraordinary sight. Thousands of flamingos stretched across the pan, joined by hundreds of Red-billed Teal and numerous other waterbirds.
What had started as a disappointing search turned into one of the most memorable birding experiences of the entire expedition.
There was another benefit to the unexpected stop. Since Gobabis, Elsie had been warning that the fuel filter required attention. Knowing that the deep sands of Khaudum lay ahead, I decided it was prudent to replace it before pushing further into remote country. Fortunately, I had brought a spare filter from Hoedspruit, and the lodge campsite provided an unexpectedly convenient workshop.
Sometimes the best sightings are the ones you nearly miss.