Faces Of Hanoi

Faces Of Hanoi Pictures and stories from the life of a foreigner in Hanoi, Vietnam.

I avoid the bar. I walk up my block with "Sons Of Pioneers" playing. A girl in a messy sewing room, deep in concentratio...
02/06/2026

I avoid the bar. I walk up my block with "Sons Of Pioneers" playing. A girl in a messy sewing room, deep in concentration. A woman in kimono at a desk of her massage parlor in front of a big glowing fishtank. A young girl doing a goofy dance because she thinks nobody's looking. I keep going. Pretty young ladies selling sodas on dirt scrap piles under filthy awnings. Old ladies beating discarded furniture up with hammers. A kid crying insanely sat on a filthy sidewalk with precarious construction above. Guys casually squatted in flipflops and shorts next to a bulldozer perched on trash bringing a building down. An old lady walking backwards fanning herself. The top floor of a building, casually on fire. A car driving slow with the hood up and a guy squatted inside the engine area, tinkering around. Everyone in the streets. People need each other. They do the simple things. They sit together in the dark, eat pumpkin seeds, picnic by the lake. She leaves and I walked to food street, every square inch a spectacle of people just living unabashedly in their skin, smiling and crying and barfing and sweating and stroking their kids. I do what I normally do there; I roam for a vaguely inviting place then end up at the one in the center that really is no more inviting than the others. I ask for rice, beer and the bathroom. A young boy who works there stares at me. I give him the smile. He gives it back. His little sister is sitting across from me at the table when I return. She looks straight through me, unimpressed, for a long time, then leans over and vomits in the little bucket by the table, then goes back to looking through me. An average date, really.








You’re traveling. Your Hanoi apartment is locked up and you will return to moldy clothes. The air is clean here but you’...
16/04/2026

You’re traveling. Your Hanoi apartment is locked up and you will return to moldy clothes. The air is clean here but you’ve been in Hanoi too long to care. The plates, the bill and the people are all three times the size. Everyone is old unlike Hanoi, where only you’re old. Nobody is driving their bike down the completely wrong side of the road as if they’re not. People at the gym here do not flit from machine to machine flinging around 2.2kg weights between 11 minute scrolling breaks. 15 teenagers in Lo**ta dresses are not taking pictures of each other trying to look nonchalant at coffeeshops. Sapporo is only on tap at sushi restaurants. The convenience store does not sell pig intestines. The only people on the streets are homeless. Everyone here speaks your language and you still don’t want to talk to them. You think about all the time and money and planes it took to be here and you try to take your eyes off your weird little life for 15 seconds and walk around and breathe and try to feel where you are, but surely you know by now that’s not how life works. There’s life and then there’s your mind where most of us live, and the two sync every blue moon. You’ll be in Noi Bai Airport soon enough, standing in the wrong line for 20 minutes and grabbing your bags alongside guys hoisting gigantic duct-taped cardboard boxes off the belt that are bigger than they are and walking into the arrivals lobby to excited families running up to the person just behind you. In Hanoi you dreamed about being here and now you’re here dreaming about being in Hanoi, or at least dreaming about being someone who doesn’t always dream about being somewhere else, or even better, someone who just dreams a little less in general.




You’ve moved to Hanoi alone to start a business. You relocated from the Somerset condos to an apartment deep in an alley...
12/04/2026

You’ve moved to Hanoi alone to start a business. You relocated from the Somerset condos to an apartment deep in an alley with a balcony like a zoo cage. You hauled vast sums of local bills in the middle of the night out of the few ATMs that accepted your card while a guy you met eight minutes prior sat outside with the meter running and now you have an office next to a dog restaurant, and 3 Vietnamese business partners handling floor plans and electric lines because apparently that's all common knowledge here. You have a membership to a gym you have a feeling will be shuttered in a week, a barber who gave you a Dragonball Z haircut and a Vietnamese tutor with the same haircut. You had an “agent” who showed you a series of stuffy apartments with submarine windows and old men downstairs who want to see the ID of everyone you bring home, then you figured out Facebook runs Vietnam and now you have an apartment with big windows and a landlady who is also your butcher and took you to Korean BBQ where you spent all night typing stuff into Google Translate and holding it up to each other’s faces. You have a little old smiley neighbor who wanders around the park in a Santa Claus hat holding a stick in one hand and her granddaughter’s hand in the other. You have a lawyer named Miss Hue. Every time you come to her office a girl gets everyone water nobody drinks, you take your shoes off then step in a puddle, then you sign and stamp 11 documents you don’t understand. The second time you met Miss Hue you shook her hand and she said “we already met”. You have a cleaning lady who looks confused when you tip her. You have an empty fridge because sometimes you’re too hungry to play charades with cashiers to figure out what you’re buying and what it costs. A local girl you’re seeing says men are lazy. She should have seen what made the security guard laugh: you closing a cab door with your feet while holding groceries in one hand and an umbrella in the other while it rained.



There’s nothing like that first cab ride from the airport after you land in a strange city. The cab smells weird and the...
01/04/2026

There’s nothing like that first cab ride from the airport after you land in a strange city. The cab smells weird and the money is funny and you’re trying to learn what you can about the country from the back of the driver’s head, while the sound of whistles being blown by old men in baggy uniforms fade into Roxette and Richard Marx and all the other songs Asian radio plays like they dropped last week as the car floats down freeway offramps and up highway onramps while you try to remember the names on the signs so you can impress locals later. The view out the window is a Tom & Jerry cartoon chase; a few scenes on loop. In Hanoi, lamplit soda shacks and sleepy trash fires give way to moms under neon aiming their kids while they p**s and doors open so you can see people watching TV and see what they’re watching too and businesses that you can’t understand how they make any money. College students walking down the street talking in sign language past girls pretty enough to be models folding mountains of clothes and extremely short men building homes at night while smoking a cigarette. Towels like the exhausted flags of a thousand countries cover the balconies of cooked apartment blocks hovering over lots packed with cars you’ve never heard of. You give up trying to catch it all and unfocus a little like you’re looking at one of those Magic Eye posters from the 90s. Government building. Bia hoi. Pho. Photocopies. You imagine living in one of those lit windows. Some people actually live here and this is all normal to them. But in your world, this is an adventure. And eight years later when you’re watching Seinfeld naked in your apartment because spring is verging on too hot to walk around trying to understand something that’s not a mystery anyway while your landlady guts fish in the lobby and old ladies square dance to the same song 20 times in the park, it still doesn’t get old. You will, but it doesn’t.

You need flowers and a card. Every day of your life here you walk past two million stores selling a million cards and fi...
12/03/2026

You need flowers and a card. Every day of your life here you walk past two million stores selling a million cards and five million flowers but now that you need them you have no idea where to buy them. Walking jogs the memory. You rock up into that bookstore by the ATM and walk around looking for cards. Even when you walk up to her and say "alo" she looks at you up and down for a few seconds chewing gum like you could be a couch, a hatstand, anything. No cards. A bookstore has no cards. Okay. Walking jogs the memory. You walk past the j***y house where the old lady with the blackened teeth always sits and there she is like always and suddenly you're in the moment you've been thinking about for years. You take the shot of your life, then dive immediately into asking where the flower shop next door went. She gives you the same amazing neverending smile she always does while everyone around her tries to figure out what you're saying. You see a happy new year card and buy it. Happy new year it is. You walk past an old lady who sits outside her house every day never looking anything but sad. Is this your day for two holes in one? You walk past her and she smiles. Walking with purpose always gives you away, must remember that. You decide to buy flowers and walk back and give her one. Walking jogs the memory. The corner a few streets down is a bloodbath of flower flotsam every day. You buy a few and loop back to her door. She's gone. The friendly guy at the crab noodle soup spot sees your flowers and cards and claps. You walk home wondering how this place can blow your head off every time. It's just regular life. Is that why it's so good? Is that how far the world has drifted?














🇻🇳










Share a phở because phở almost always smells better than it tastes, just like booze is a great idea much more often than...
01/03/2026

Share a phở because phở almost always smells better than it tastes, just like booze is a great idea much more often than a great night, but you keep trying anyway because every now and then it knocks your socks, and now you’ve set yourself up for another ten mediocre phởs, you think to yourself as a lady with Down Syndrome selling nail clippers strokes your chin briefly before setting off. Make a note in your phone: phở nạm gầu is the one. Realized Vietnam is like pho. Like most things really. Sit in a coffeeshop thinking about how you used to stay up alone till 4 in the morning when you were a kid in a Vegas casino or some weird airport because you didn’t want to miss a thing. Every door in this town is a rabbithole into more stories and more moments that are all available to you because you’re just the kind of person who doesn’t mind getting their chin stroked by a stranger, and sometimes you feel like you could walk forever, taking pictures, sure, but also stepping into those salons because those women are already smiling at you so why not? Those men playing backgammon are already smiling at you so why not? Snapping your way from one beer to another before falling into the nearest moldy hotel for the night then waking up and doing it again until you wake up one day on the other side of the world, which is to say back home because Hanoi is about as far as you can get from it, except after 14 years in moldy hotels, any moldy hotel is home now. But instead you're back to normal, trying to bottle what just happened into words while you gaze through a window at people in the street like they're fish in an aquarium, except they're living their best lives in a country they make sense in and you're probably the goldfish. But to be fair, who tried more than me? Who took more pictures of this place and went down more of its rabbitholes than me? At least I know my retirement plan now. Moldy hotels. Walk till I drop.





















Get out of the house because it’s 3pm two days before Tết aka Lunar New Year’s Day and Hanoi will be a humid chilly land...
12/02/2026

Get out of the house because it’s 3pm two days before Tết aka Lunar New Year’s Day and Hanoi will be a humid chilly landscape of families strolling past their shuttered shophouses in their Sunday best for almost a week so enjoy human life while you can. Step over your landlady’s family dismembering pigs in the lobby. Walk past old people in the classic Vietnamese squat you just figured out how to do after eight years here and is the best back stretch ever, ripping up paper and tossing it into a smoking copper urn as if the city with the world’s worst air pollution needs more. Walk past door after door, all open, so you can see inside dank salons where pretty women check their phones with one slipper hanging off one foot because business is bad so the salon will be gone Tuesday morning just as sure as you’re looking at it on Thursday, behind sidewalks you can’t use because they’re covered with tables festooned with strawberries and pickled shallots and marbled pork and chili oil and all the stuff you wish you could find as you lie in bed every night around the corner. Take a picture of a family lined up just right in front of one of those storefronts that slaps a natural pictureframe around just about every photo you take in this city. Step through crowds of teens giving you their best “hello” and kids opening their mouths to show you what they’re eating when you’re not walking the tightrope between the sidewalk and even more bikes heaving with even more family members than usual because yes, it is two days before Tết and you’ll never understand how important Tết is here until you live here, and I’ve lived here eight years and I still don’t really get it, but anything that can give this place even more life then it has on the average mess of a day is more than fine by me.




Một người phụ nữ có những vết sẹo bỏng trên mặt và hình xăm trên cánh tay ghi “no space in my heart” đã gội đầu và massa...
25/01/2026

Một người phụ nữ có những vết sẹo bỏng trên mặt và hình xăm trên cánh tay ghi “no space in my heart” đã gội đầu và massage đầu cho tôi. Tôi nằm đó, nhắm mắt, hóp bụng lại, nghĩ rằng Việt Nam giống như một buổi massage vậy. Có lúc đau, có lúc chán ngắt và vô nghĩa, thỉnh thoảng lóe lên vài khoảnh khắc dễ chịu thật sự. Nhưng dù thế nào đi nữa, lúc nào chúng cũng ở quanh bạn, bóp, ấn, luồn vào cả tai bạn. Có ngày bạn sẽ đi ngủ trong tình trạng say và đói, vì người nước ngoài không biết tiếng Việt thì ở Cầu Giấy là chết đói, trong khi ai cũng chỉ cần nói “ba ba ba” là xong. Rồi nhiều năm sau bạn tỉnh dậy và nhận ra đã cả năm rồi mình chưa uống một lon bia 333 nào. Bà cô trông xe ở tòa nhà văn phòng của tôi bảo tôi nên lấy vợ, nhất là với cái đầu tóc cắt đẹp thế này.

A lady with burn marks across her face and an arm tattoo saying "no space in my heart" washed my hair and gave me a head massage. I lay there, eyes shut, sucking my belly in, thinking about how Vietnam is like a massage. Sometimes hurts, sometimes boring and pointless, occasional flashes of pure pleasure, but no matter what they’re always around you, squeezing, probing, getting in your ears. One day you're going to sleep drunk and hungry because foreigners with no Vietnamese skills starve in Càu Giấy, but everyone can say 'ba ba ba'. Then you wake up years later and realize you haven't had a 333 beer in a year. The lady who parks bikes in my office building told me I should get married with a haircut that amazing.





















Hà Nội không làm màu, nó đang sống. Tập thể dục, cắt tóc, ngủ, nấu ăn, đi đái, tất cả đều diễn ra ngoài đường; mấy ông g...
11/01/2026

Hà Nội không làm màu, nó đang sống. Tập thể dục, cắt tóc, ngủ, nấu ăn, đi đái, tất cả đều diễn ra ngoài đường; mấy ông già trông như vừa lết ra khỏi giường chỉ để chỉnh lại một cái móc áo treo trên cây, mấy bà già tối nào cũng nhảy đúng hai bài Modern Talking như thể Bức tường Berlin vừa sụp đổ, đội mấy cái mũ mua chỉ để ra công viên nhảy cho vui, biết chẳng có ai khác quan tâm và làm chỉ vì họ thích. Mấy đứa trẻ mập mạp lướt đi cố không nhìn tôi, bọn thanh thiếu niên ngồi trong góc tối dán mặt vào điện thoại, người thì lêu nghêu; tôi từng được thêm rồi lại bị đá khỏi nhóm Zalo của khu, lén sang cửa hàng tiện lợi “xịn” hơn để bà bán hàng mồm mép ở chỗ kia khỏi mắng cho một trận, mùi bia hơi thì thơm nhưng tôi không dám vào vì kiểu gì cũng bị kéo vào một vòng xoáy toàn mấy chén rượu dở hơi. Và chẳng ai trong số họ biết, hoặc có thể một vài người biết, rằng có một thằng Tây sống trong căn hộ trên kia, phần lớn là để được gần họ, nghe họ qua cửa sổ, cảm cái năng lượng đó, để ngay cả khi thấy cô đơn, hắn vẫn cảm giác mình là một phần của cái gì đó ở đây.

Hanoi is unpretentious. It’s living. Exercise, haircuts, sleep, cooking, p**sing, it all happens on the streets. Old guys who look like they just wandered out of bed to adjust a coat hanger hanging on a tree. Old ladies dancing to the same two Modern Talking songs every night like the Berlin Wall just fell wearing hats they bought just to dance in the park with. They know nobody else will ever care. They do it because they enjoy it. Chubby kids scoot around trying not to look at me. Teenagers sit in dark corners on their phones all gangly. I got briefly added then booted from the neighborhood Zalo group. I sneak into the better corner store so the mouthy lady at the other one doesn't rip me a new one. The bia hoi smells good but I can't go or they will drag me into a maelstrom of bad shots. And none of them know, or maybe some of them do, that a foreign guy lives in an apartment upstairs largely to be near them, to hear them out the window and feel their energy so even when he's lonely he still feels like he's a part of something out here.





















Điều khó nhất trong việc làm một việc không phải là làm nó, mà là làm nó khác đi. Ai cũng có thể vặn nắp ống kem và mơ v...
11/10/2025

Điều khó nhất trong việc làm một việc không phải là làm nó, mà là làm nó khác đi. Ai cũng có thể vặn nắp ống kem và mơ về một ngày giống hôm nay, chỉ khác là hôm đó mình không lãng phí nó như hôm nay. Bước ra khỏi nhà máy nghĩa là phải thừa nhận mình đã làm sai — rằng mình nghĩ có thể ngừng suy nghĩ. Có thể bạn từng muốn vặn nắp ống kem giỏi nhất, và không ai nói với bạn đó là một giấc mơ ngu ngốc. Rồi bạn tự hiểu, nhưng tự ái đã xen vào. Giờ không còn là chuyện giỏi nhất nữa, mà là chứng minh rằng giấc mơ đó đáng. Hoặc có thể bạn chỉ lười — không phải lười làm việc, mà lười tìm một giấc mơ mới. Nỗi sợ thật sự không phải là thất bại, mà là đi lệch quá xa đến mức không còn thấy mình đã lệch.

The hardest thing about doing things isn't doing them. It's doing them different. Anyone can work at the toothpaste factory, screw caps on toothpaste tubes and dream of a day just like today except you didn't waste it like you did today. Getting up and walking out of the toothpaste factory and never coming back means admitting you've been doing it wrong, the number one thing being thinking you can afford to stop thinking every day, all day. Maybe you dreamed about screwing caps on toothpaste better than anyone ever did ever. And maybe nobody ever told you that's a stupid dream and a waste of your one life on this rock. And you probably figured that out but now your pride's involved, now it's not about screwing caps on toothpaste better than anyone ever did, now it's about proving to yourself and the world that it was a good idea in the first place. Or maybe you're just lazy, not too lazy to sweat and toil for the next 40 years screwing caps on toothpaste but too lazy to go through the trouble of getting a better dream. The big worry isn’t that you make gigantic mistakes. It’s that you’re so far off the mark that you can’t even see it.

Address

Hanoi

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Faces Of Hanoi posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Shortcuts

Share

Category