08/20/2026
One year ago today. Hurricane Erin
Six days on the road.
350 miles on the ski.
And one storm that changed everything.
A week before Hurricane Erin arrived, I found a point on Google Earth that I believed had the potential to become a world-class wave based on swell direction, maps, and our crew’s combined knowledge.
We had never seen it break in person.
But we believed. So we committed.
Then Erin lined up.
For two days, we surfed waves as long as some of the longest in the world, first a mile, then nearly two miles, moving 30–40 mph, with sets pushing 25–30 feet at the peak.
They were some of the best waves of my life.
On the mainland.
With no crowd.
Just Ben, Chase, Tony, James, Cole, and me.
A year later, I still think about how surreal it was.
It was sacred. It was dangerous. We were miles from anyone, offshore winds howling, knowing one bad decision could change the entire mission. I lost a full set of camera gear when Nearly flipped the ski.
And I’d do it again.
Because this is why I live.
To chase visions that might never materialize.
To ride waves that may only exist for a few hours.
To share those moments with people I love.
Trips like this take everything — physically, mentally, emotionally.
But when years of curiosity, preparation, risk, friendship, and nature line up at exactly the right moment, there’s nothing else like it.
Maybe that wave won’t break like that again for another decade.
Maybe never.
But one year later, I’m still grateful we were there when it did.
And if it ever wakes up again, we’ll be ready.
Don’t ask me where. Some secrets are worth keeping.
