10/29/2026
Down, But Not Out
In all my years of riding, I’ve been lucky. Thousands of miles across borders, mountains and cities, and never a crash. On a quiet evening in Mocoa, Colombia, that luck finally ran out.
The day’s ride was done. My bags were off at the hotel, and I was slipping out a few blocks for something to eat. I had my jacket and helmet on but not my riding pants. Just a quick trip, I thought.
Coming down a hill, I rolled toward a green light with a group of traffic. A motorcycle came up on my left and swung right, straight across all of us. He clipped my front tire, and the bike went out from under me. Just like that, the bike and I were sliding across the asphalt, coming to rest in the middle of the intersection. Thankfully, no one ran us over.
I stood up, walked it off, pulled off my helmet and let out a few words I won’t repeat here. Then I walked back to my bike. The other rider parked, came over and asked if he could help. Together we lifted her up and pushed her to the side of the road.
Every country has its own customs for what happens next. I’d read about many of them over the years, and in that moment I couldn’t remember a single one. So I did what we all do: I called a friend. He was in Peru and didn’t know, but he gave me the number of someone in Colombia. Their advice was not to call the police. It would mean days of paperwork and very little else. Better to settle it there on the street.
So I told the rider he needed to pay for the damage. He asked how much. How could I know? I walked around the bike: a deeply scratched engine guard, a twisted clutch lever, a broken hand guard, a bent mirror, a snapped windshield mount, plus a dozen smaller scars. I took a guess and said $700. He said he’d go to the ATM.
I was sure I’d never see him again. Ten minutes later he was back, with the full amount in Colombian pesos. We shook hands.
Then I walked over to the woman at the arepa cart, who had watched the whole thing from behind her grill, bought an arepa and sat down. I let my nerves settle and the frustration drain away. When I was ready, I got back on the bike and rode away.
A good scrape on my knee and some soreness in my knee and arm. That’s all. The bike and I both got knocked down. Neither of us stayed down.
The road will humble you eventually. What matters is what you do after. I got up, I settled up, I ate an arepa, and the next morning I rode on.