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I have devoted myself to the disciplines of a professional landscape, interior design and event photographer for many years. Residing in rural Douglas County, Kansas, I've nurtured a growing interest with travel and nature photography through the course of some decades with film and digital cameras. I am also a devoted husband and father who loves to be in the outdoors, hiking, skiing and enjoying God's beautiful creation and doing my small part to encourage others to partake of and help sustain our natural heritage. Without the support of my best friend and wife, Priscilla, and our three grown sons, I'd not have the time to pursue photography full time. As a lifelong learner, I love to share what I'm learning, and whether sharing a simple story about a photograph's subject or delving into the intricacies of photography, I hope you come away encouraged and enthused about the beauty of creation and the world around you. One of my mottos is: 'the only photographer you should compare yourself to is the one you used to be.'

Since almost every lens nowadays can resolve details to maximum degree, that is, all the details that are visible to the...
09/30/2026

Since almost every lens nowadays can resolve details to maximum degree, that is, all the details that are visible to the naked eye at the relative distance the telephoto lens is presenting the subject, and since software now can remove noise without losing those details, and enlarge files without artifacts assuming good details, I have been re-examining older files, like this one taken from about 14 feet away with an OM-D E-M1X and 12-100mm zoom lens at 100mm using a process that enlarges, sharpens, and downsamples to what would have been the view with a much larger lens, like 400mm. There are times when traveling or being out and about when we only bring along a good all purpose camera and lens. The 12-100mm lens on the m43 sensor is cropped to an equivalent field of view that a 24 to 200mm lens would have in the film era on a 35mm film camera. It's very useable for nearly everything in terms of reach, until you try and get close to something small and shy, where keeping your distance can allow for getting photos, but they aren't as close as you'd like to be for the focal range. Cropping in creates smaller files and noise is 'enlarged' in the process. Yet with modern software, this is almost becoming a non issue assuming the conditions and camera lens kit is up to the resolving capabilities. In this case, I used a flash so the duration of the flash at 1/8000 second was what 'freezes' movement of the hummingbird's wings even though the camera shutter speed is 1/250, as well as keeps ISO low at 200 and allows for good color and contrast of feathers. I was still a bit underexposed in the original, which is why the wings are still not as detailed as I would have liked.

An ISO 10,000 raw file processed with DXO's ultimate denoise tool. I think it does an okay job for any social media shar...
09/28/2026

An ISO 10,000 raw file processed with DXO's ultimate denoise tool. I think it does an okay job for any social media shares. It can't quite bring out the details as clearly and distinctly as Adobe's own 2x upscale denoised in Topaz Photos can do, but it's faster and reasonably priced. I prefer Topaz Photos for the ORF raw files, over DXO Photolab, but it's more personal preference as I like to print and the level of fine grainy noise in the original files is not hard to manage in Adobe Lightroom and prints a little better than images that have all the noise removed.

09/05/2026

The following collection of questions are some I ask myself frequently as I engage in my own photographs over the decades, watch reviews of cameras or lenses comparing one to another, watch practical advice videos to explain how-to's from various types of photography, subject matter, scenarios, etc. or engage with others trying to problem solve a particular challenge and whether or not some particular piece of equipment will actually help or not.

- [ ] Can you remember seeing a published image promotion by a company or ambassador/representative, print or otherwise, being shared as an example of the merits of a particular camera/lens that was not a good image, sharp, and detailed? Ads included.
- [ ] If you put your favorite photo from the past five years on a page with favorite photos from ten years and twenty years ago, with no information to give away when the photo was taken, would it be easy for most people to tell which photos were recent and which were taken a decade ago? Two decades ago?
- [ ] Do you sometimes watch YouTube videos of lens reviews that get technical with details, such as PetaPixel? Are our eyes getting worse or is the ‘differences’ they point out, zooming in to 200%, so insignificant that we wonder why even compare them? Who would notice in normal seeing conditions?
- [ ] Is the level of quality of the gear the biggest factor to making better photos, in your experience?
- [ ] If you went through and analyzed your time spent on photography related social media channels: Youtube, Facebook Groups, Instagram, etc., what is the breakdown of gear information/reviews vs subject shares/examples vs technique/editing tips and How-tos? What does that tell you?
- [ ] If you aren’t a professional earning income in photography, would you be shooting as much and as often if there was no social media sharing or ways to promote your interests? In other words, are you interested in your subjects for their own sake? Or in the sharing and bond between mutual interests? ie, some join bird watching to study birds and some to talk about birds and their love for them with others primarily.
- [ ] How has your involvement with photography impacted you on a personal level? Think of some benefits.
- [ ] If you were starting from scratch today, knowing what you know, would you chase maximum sensor size, or build your kit around computational innovation, optical efficiency per gram, and a system that rewards mobility over benchmark specs?

Another Lunar Eclipse coming with clear skies predicted for Thursday evening starting at 8:23pm and finishing up by 2:01...
08/26/2026

Another Lunar Eclipse coming with clear skies predicted for Thursday evening starting at 8:23pm and finishing up by 2:01 am Friday morning. It won't be a total eclipse, but pretty close at 96% in our area. Enjoy the show.

I met Jon Robichaud in 1974 in a dorm room Bible Study and we have been close friends ever since. Our mutual affinity fo...
08/03/2026

I met Jon Robichaud in 1974 in a dorm room Bible Study and we have been close friends ever since. Our mutual affinity for photography is only superseded by what I would say is an unwritten rule for life: God first, family second, career third. In Jon’s case he has truly been dedicated to all three and in that order, I think.

The other overarching principle I have observed from watching Jon in action with a camera for more than fifty years, is based on the anonymous quote I took to heart decades ago: the only photographer you should compare yourself with is the one you used to be. Jon’s standard of excellence and persistence in improving has both challenged and humbled me throughout the years of our friendship and times shooting together.

Jon was recently the guest on a popular sports talk show on YouTube. if you are someone who enjoys good sports and music performances, then you likely appreciate the photographers who capture those memorable moments you use to savor and refer to often. Jon is one of those blessed and diligent ones who has shared his passion and talents with many. This interview was well worth the time to watch.

On this week's Excellent Adventure KC's new home run King, KU's Fie...

https://developer.apple.com/videos/play/wwdc2026/305/?This looks very interesting for Mac users. The presentation on thi...
07/19/2026

https://developer.apple.com/videos/play/wwdc2026/305/?

This looks very interesting for Mac users. The presentation on this is highly technical for software developers; but the introduction with examples speaks for itself.

Harness the power of version 9 of the Core Image RAW processing APIs to dramatically improve image quality in your apps, with improved...

https://youtu.be/6OxoqkZwmmkI've watched much longer and in depth discussions that didn't explain this as well as Simon ...
02/18/2026

https://youtu.be/6OxoqkZwmmk

I've watched much longer and in depth discussions that didn't explain this as well as Simon does here.

Check out Whitewall at https://trfy.eu/Dk1VS and use code WWSIMON10 for 10% off!Sign up for my email list and get a free e-book on How to Shoot Backlit.https...

https://www.jeffmcpheeters.com/Travel/ChinaI have needed for some time to clean up my photo library and organize online ...
02/09/2026

https://www.jeffmcpheeters.com/Travel/China

I have needed for some time to clean up my photo library and organize online albums for friends and family, mostly. We have a lot of travel photos I have not organized into albums, so I randomly picked China from 2013 to go through and arrange, partly because it was the first major trip we took where I had replaced the large Canon DSLRs with two much smaller Olympus OM-D E-M5 cameras.

I brought along six lenses and the whole batch was smaller and lighter than what I had taken previous years. I will put a photo in the comments to give a visual comparison of size differences.

The first thing I began to notice when pulling out favorites from 2013, was how well they hold up to today's standards. The signal to noise ratio was actually quite good in those older sensors, up to around ISO3200. I had none of the pro lenses I use today. I did have a couple of small prime f/1.8 lenses, one of which I still use today and is a favorite: 75mm f/1.8. The 4x3 format was very flexible for taking 3x2 horizontal or 4x5 vertical crops out of when wanted. Dynamic range was passable and the color fidelity, mostly shot in auto white balance, was spot on in most cases, and especially in indoor venues with wildly variable lighting (performances and that sort of thing). jpegs out of camera were great and raw images could easily be corrected for white balance issues if needed. I used a small TTL flash at times, and Olympus handles TTL like a pro, it seems.

My lenses were the m.Zuiko 12-50 f/3.5-6.7 kit zoom, an excellent lens and one I have currently, attached to an E-M5 I still use; the m.Zuiko 40-150mm f/4-5.6 zoom lens, also quite good and small, a 7.5mm Rokinon fisheye, f/3.5, manual lens, m.Zuiko 45mm and 75mm f/1.8 primes (outstanding lenses - not weather sealed), and a 75-300mm II f/4.8-6.7 wealther sealed zoom. The largest lens is the size of a soft drink aluminum can about as heavy. I also used an iPhone 6 at that time and some iPhone images are in these albums.

Any of these would be fine today. Were I to return, I might get by with a modern iPhone for snaps and video, and an OM-1 with a 12-100 f/4 for 90% of the shots along with the 8mm f/1.8 fisheye. I would also have my Olympus TG-5 tough camera for macro as it's pocketable.

Newer sensors handle much higher ISOs and noise reduction in Lightroom is very capable. For countryside/zoos/distance, the 40-150/2.8 is still my favorite lens of all time, although the 75-300II is still a decent and small lens for day travel. I'd bring along the MC20 2x Teleconverter just in case. And a Godox flash.

Freelance photographer specializing event photography, fine art landscape, nature, and portraiture.

This can be a fun exercise. Try it!
01/24/2026

This can be a fun exercise. Try it!

Crystalline Connections – Freezing Soap Bubbles

Cold is gripping much of North America. I checked the temperatures in my hometown of Sudbury, Ontario this morning, and it was -32C / -26F. With these horrible storms set to arrive later today and with bitter cold, many people are stuck at home. Why not try to photograph freezing soap bubbles? It’s easier than you think.

Step 1: Cold. Usually temperatures colder than -8C / 18F. Any warmer than this, and the crystals don’t form as readily or quickly enough. At the same time, temperatures colder than -20C / -4F generally don’t perform well as the bubble freezes far too quickly to be useful.

Step 2: No wind. Sunlight creates thermals. Shooting at dusk or later provides for calmer air.

Step 3: Light. Position an LED flashlight behind the bubble. If you’ve got a Fresnel lens (“sheet magnifier”) you can use that to refocus the beam.

Step 4: Camera and lens. A regular macro lens set to roughly 1:2 magnification is a good starting point (half life-size macro) and physically move the camera forward and back while continuously shooting. Handholding is best here, as each bubble will interact with the light differently and you will need to move around a bit, and quickly.

Bubble creation technique: Use a drinking straw to blow the bubble from a solution of the following:
- 6 parts water
- 2 parts normal dish detergent
- 1 part white corn syrup. If you don’t have this, just thicken up some simple syrup or add sugar to water until it becomes a syrupy consistency.

There’s more to this process, but there’s the basics. If you want the full tutorial, I write about it in a chapter of my book on macro photography: https://www.amazon.com/Macro-Photography-Universe-Our-Feet/dp/103276984X/

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