26/03/2023
In this 18th and penultimate episode of Paths Less Traveled - Iran, I’ve made it to the final destination of my journey around Iran before I’m back in Tehran.
After a visit to the incredible Ali Sadr Cave (غار علی صدر) - The longest water cave in the world where you have to travel by boat, we’ll head on to the city of Hamedan.
As with everywhere I visited in the Kurdish region at the time, things felt on edge due to the protests going on. There was a heavy police presence in the centre so we thought it best to leave and see the city in the relative safety of the morning.
The following morning, we head out into the city and I was in for quite a surprise, Hamedan is amazing! Vibrant and with an amazing rich history!
We started off at Imam Khomeini Square (پیاده راه میدان امام خمینی), the beautiful central square of the city as well as thoroughly exploring the wonderful Hamedan Grand Bazaar (بازار تاریخی بزرگ همدان) that runs all around. An incredible view on local life in the city and not shut down due to the protests as we saw in Khorramabad and Kermanshah.
We then visit the Tomb of Esther and Mordekhai (آرامگاه اِستر و مُردخای), an interesting ancient mausoleum thought by Iranian Jews (yes you read that correctly!!!) to contain the bodies of biblical Queen Esther & her cousin Mordekhai.
Exploring the bazaar and central area we discover the Golshan Caravansary (کاروانسرای گلشن) and others, showing a wonderful history back to the time of the Silk Road.
After that, we step just to the side of the centre to the Hegmataneh Complex, an ancient site that pre-dates even the Persian royal dynasties, as well as finding the unexpected Stephen Gregory Church (کلیسای گریگوری استیپانوس).
Time to leave the center so we head way out to find Ghorme Sabzi for lunch, a traditional Iranian stew of vegetables, beans and lamb.
After lunch we head to the Tomb of Avicenna (آرامگاه بوعلی سینا), the mausoleum complex featuring the tomb of Abu Ali Sina and its charming grounds.
As a last destination for the day we head to the Tomb of Baba Taher (آرامگاه باباطاهر), a vast memorial to the medieval Persian poet, along with the surrounding park.
Finally we see where all the LED lights go at the ice cream shops by my hotel, and of course have some of that awesome ice cream!
Come and join me and let me show you this surprisingly awesome city!