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Foodie et al., 片町2丁目29-7, Kanazawa-shi (2026)

14/05/2023

Not far from the bank of the Sai River in Kanazawa lies Zeniya, a Relais & Châteaux restaurant that has been serving a Kaga-style kaiseki for 53 years, incorporating elements of medicinal cuisine (ishoku dogen). Favoured by locals and foreigners, second generation chef Takagi Shinichiro uses local, fresh and seasonal ingredients to showcase the best of the Hokuriku region by personally sourcing each day's menu. It's a practice that pays dividends; every ingredient has a depth of flavour not present in commercial supply.

A special example of this is seen in the hotaru ika - firefly squid that are at their best in the spring. Zeniya uses live (swipe left to see) squid; rarely found outside of the Hokuriku region, as having the live squid transported is cost-prohibitive, and even then, many don't survive the trip, further increasing the price. Though small in size, these hyper-local squid have immense salinity and sweetness, pairing with the richness of the awabi and the vegetal sweetness of the broadbeans. These elements are also well considered. Male abalone is chosen as it is reportedly superior in flavour, and the you can tell immediately upon tasting that the broadbeans are carefully chosen - the flavour is very poignant. Other dishes at Zeniya receive the same thoughtful, thorough treatment resulting in a satisfying and balanced meal. Phenomenal service, and phenomenal food - a benchmark-setting, incredible meal in Japan!
📸:
1. Live firefly squid, abalone and edamame - description above. Even crazier, the abalone in and of itself is a Zeniya signature - 10 hours of steaming before simmering and grilling.
2. The 'before' shot
3. Sea cucumber ovaries
4. Suppon (soft turtle) broth with grilled fugu shirako, chives and sansho
5. Fugu sashimi with boiled fugu skin, tomato, sudachi, dark soy, vinegar and sea salt
6. Manjugai (a local clam), shunran (noble orchid), nanohana (rapeseed flower) - an awesome combination of clammy freshness, the succulent juiceness of the shunran, the grassiness of nanohana and the acidity of the ponzu jelly
7. Miso soup
8. Nanohana wagashi
9. Strawberry and Kuromitsu
10. Matcha

19/01/2023

Hartsyard's gone through quite a journey. Once an extremely popular fried chicken shop in Newtown (and even releasing a cookbook about said chicken), the restaurant chose to eschew its roots, renovating and changing the format to a more diverse offering, including a set menu, at the turn of the new year in 2018. It even opened (and subsequently closed) a sister bar, and then a casual eatery that brought fried chicken back to its cult-followers. Throughout all this, the ownership of Hartsyard changed hands to its two current co-owners - its own head chef Jarrod Walsh, and his partner and chef Dot Lee. Until recently, Hartsyard formed a part of the vibrant cluster of restaurants on Enmore Road. However, adding to an already rich history, the two co-owners closed the restaurant in August 2022, and have recently opened Irene's in the space. Meanwhile, the old Hartsyard team is moving to the Old Clare Hotel in Chippendale, taking over the Automata space (around which Jarrod used to work). With so much happening it almost requires a corkboard with red string to keep together the facts, but it seems there's much to look forward to! As regards the food, the Hartsyard style was a highly approachable, yet considered and refined interpretation of modern Australian cuisine. Special attention really needs to be drawn to this barramundi burger (read: filet-o-fish). A truly phenomenal rendition that very, very nearly led to reordering it at the end of the meal. With the volatile change in Hartsyard's menus, I don't know if it'll make a reappearance in the Chippendale restaurant, but here's hoping!
📸:
1. That burger.
2. Potato tart
3. Dry aged Borrowdale pork chop schnitzel with curry butter, charred lime
4. Grilled Kingfish Head with Szechuan sauce
5. Kingfish crudo
6. Hervey bay scallops
7. Pumpkin ash honeycomb, pumpkin seed oil and pepita ice cream
8. Coconut sorbet, roasted coconut sherbet and finger lime

18/01/2023

Moving on to the nigiri at Sokyo. As is the rule with a sushi omakase, Sokyo is no exception in sourcing the best seafood it can. Shari is nicely seasoned, using a blend of three different Japanese rices.
📸 (From top left to bottom right):
1. Bass grouper, shiso
2. Zuke akami
3. Cuttlefish and lime
4. Imperador topped with mustard
5. Salmon, orange kosho
6. Chuutoro
7. Amaebi with caviar temaki
8. Smoked scampi
9. Otoro
10. Tiger prawn
11. Tamagoyaki
12. Lobster miso soup
Centre: signature Kim-maki - very boomable as I found out (thanks )

#おトロ #中トロ

17/01/2023

In light of the departure of the popular Sano-san, the (cheeky) chef Kim is now at the helm of Sokyo's omakase counter. He's back from Nobu, having jumped there from Sokyo previously to become head sushi chef during the first wave of the pandemic. The first part of this coveted omakase is a series of hot and cold dishes, each strong with crowd-pleasing umami, and featuring unconventional elements such as whiting on sourdough and Sokyo's famed ravioli, very much sticking with the Sokyo style of a modern take on Japanese cuisine. The desserts are no different, the menu finishing with a contemporary pair consisting of a lychee sorbet under some freeze-dried raspberry, and a mont blanc with truffle ice-cream.
📸:
1. Chef Kim presenting the neta for the omakase
2. Sourdough sando, king george whiting
3. Lobster, oscietra caviar
4. Ravioli, scampi sauce
5. Anago tempura, lime - damn this was good!
6. Abalone, liver sauce - Kim's abalone imho is one of the best in Sydney - incredibly tender!
7. Pearl meat, uni, caviar
8. Duck foie gras, plum, truffle
9. Lychee sorbet
10. Mont blanc, chantilly cream, chocolate brownie, truffle ice cream topped with grated truffle

#穴子

15/01/2023

Bringing together ingredients and techniques from multiple cuisines to make its unique and luxe set menu, it's always good to see the innovation of the LuMi team.
📸:
1. Trout sashimi with aquachile, coriander, pickled onion, cherry tomato, blood lime and cranberries, ice plant, cucumber, fennel, fennel seed
2. Tagliolini, lobster bisque, sugar snap and white sesame
3. Shiitake chawanmushi, lobster, lime zest and juice, wagyu fat
4. Kholrabi, Thai basil oil, koji butter, murray cod, pipis
5. Chocolate, coffee and black garlic, vanilla ice cream, Mille feuille
6. Murray cod with pickled cabbage and pipis
7. Puree of wasabi and peas, enoki, Blackmore wagyu, herb jus
8. Raspberry granita, frozen roasted peach, coconut
9. Petit fours - choux pastry with chantilly cream and blackberry jam

14/01/2023

Another one from the archives - even straight out of lockdown, the snack game at LuMi was still pretty strong. Still to date one of the longest snack progressions at any restaurant in Sydney.
📸:
Lumi croissant, wakame butter, caramelised red onion
Caviar pie tee, crème fraîche and quail egg
Yellowfin tuna gunkan with koshihikari, kombu gel and stracciatella
Egg yolk emulsion, trout caviar, Moreton bay bug
Nori tart, scallop and elderflower
Garlic flower, pancetta, scampi
Oysters

13/01/2023

Something stuck in the "To Publish" folder - an old visit to Kisuke about a month after they opened. In the spirit of their ever-changing menu, there were already a few changes from the first visit. This Potts Point space really gives Kisuke a cozy and homely feel - it's a tiny six-seater, and husband and wife team Morita-san and Izumi-san run their omakase in a welcoming manner that diffuses any stiffnesses from being the smaller space. Congratulations on the chef's hat, and looking forward to coming back!
📸:
Nigirizushi: Trevally, Bass grouper, Scallop kobujime, Seared scampi with yuzu, Squid and shiso, Shimesaba, Akami, Aged chuutoro, Swordfish with yuzukosho, Aged otoro, Anago, Uni temaki
Salmon and imperador sashimi
Zensai platter with Oyster with ponzu, Saké abalone with liver sauce, brussel sprout, Dash*tamago, Braised duck with whole grain mustard
Chawanmushi with ikura
Miso wagyu, uni, black truffle
Bonito and dried scallop suimono, dashi, kisu, okra
Inaniwa udon
Yuzu sorbet

12/01/2023

A huge drawcard at Ormeggio is the dessert; the restaurant has its own gelato bar, with carefully crafting each gelato dish both from scratch and to order, from using premium ingredients to craft a refined finish to any meal here. Staying true to the restaurant's core philosophy, the gelato dishes are done up in a modern style, but evoke traditional flavour combinations and are intently in tune with the seasons. It's a suite of desserts that deserves its own post - and, along with everything else, really makes the experience at Ormeggio what it is - worthy of its two hats! Congratulations to the team!
📸:
Amalfi lemon gelato with candied lemon zest, and torched Italian meringue

Mandarin and cardamom gelato, blood orange and Calamansi spheres, coconut snow, linnea flowers, carrot and orange blossom granita, olive oil gel

Yoghurt gelato, peanut brittle, candied pumpkin, pumpkin seeds, caramel and rosemary

Gelato ‘alla castagna’ - Chestnut gelato, ricotta, homemade porcini mushroom biscotti, topped Australian black truffle

Piedmontese hazelnut and Valrhona Opalys white chocolate gelato, coconut gel, and snow and roasted coconut topped with white chocolate pearls - effectively a super refined cremino gelato ^_^

.0

12/01/2023

The menu at Ormeggio is ever-changing, with extensive planning for new dishes that encompasses constant testing and adapting to seasonality, among other things. The restaurant has been operational since 2009; doubtless the experience over time guides it to this day. The team is headed by executive chef Alessandro Pavoni, but the day to day operations are run by the talented Gianmarco Pardo and Victor Moya, supported by a small army of chefs that can be seen cooking up a storm if one steps out onto the wharf next to the restaurant. This brains trust means that Ormeggio has modern takes on traditional dishes that give it its distinguishing style. Part of this can be seen through the whole fish dry ageing program that it has, with the available fish constantly subject to change.
📸:
Dry aged scorpionfish with blistered pimientos de Padrón. Individual peppers within a given batch are known to have a small probability of being extra spicy, that give the dish isolated pops of their capsaicin laden intensity.
Aged carnaroli rice risotto, with Tasmanian abalone, macadamia, kumquat and finger lime - very nice served in the shell. A sweeter flavour profile than your usual risotto

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11/01/2023

(Part 1/3): At the d'Albora Marina next to the Spit Bridge sits Ormeggio at the Spit, a stalwart restaurant serving up modern Italian cuisine. Formerly specialising in a set menu showcasing dishes each inspired by the varied regional cooking of Italy, the restaurant has since renovated and now focuses on a seafood à la carte offering. That said, the elements of Ormeggio's past success have found their way into the bedrock of the new Ormeggio. For example, those struggling to choose from the menu have the option to go with a progression of "chef's picks", and regional flavour combinations and dishes still feature, though not necessarily referenced explicitly. The new focus is distinct, and the team should be applauded for taking what is often the more challenging approach in hospitality, with an à la carte menu carrying less certainty for a restaurant than a set menu only establishment. Even less so when you're serving up fresh seafood.
📸:
1. Bluefin tuna, polenta taco, pine nuts and capers
2 and 3. tortellini with mushrooms in broth
4. Tempura murray cod collars and kingfish croquettes
5. An Ormeggio staple - hand picked spanner crab with squid ink tagliolini, sourdough chilli crumble and parsley
6. Another Ormeggio classic that goes back to the original restaurant's format - a bottoni (button) pasta that explodes with the liquid pecorino and mushroom broth filling when bitten
7. Housemade foccacia with rosemary and green olive butter
8. Kingfish crudo with preserved lemon, goat cheese and smoked egg yolk
9. Tomato glazed WA Fremantle octopus cooked over charcoal with Italian piadina flatbread, fresh Vannella stracciatella, cime di rapa, turnips and turnip tops - love the live cooking!

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11/01/2023

Much has changed at Ormeggio - the view hasn't though! Definitely an on location restaurant!

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09/01/2023

Finally - desserts.
First is a dish marked as "Sustainability" on the menu. Notably, the peas used in the imperador dish were freshly shelled. Chef Taka uses the pods left behind as the main ingredient for this interlude. This dish was on the chef's table menu from two years ago, and it's fantastic to see an improved version return for this menu. The pods, together with sorrel for acidity, are blended and chilled down into a smooth granita and garnished with grated lime zest. It's simple but effective. The fresh acidity revitalises the palate for the desserts.
The first main dessert makes use of the classic chocolate and coffee pairing. Though a classic idea, Kuro constantly produces varied manifestations of this combinations for its menus. The current rendition is a refined duo of an Amazonian cacao mousse and a single origin Bolivian coffee sauce courtesy of sister venue .
The final dessert is tofu made from comte cheese, milk and black sesame, paired with a simple vanilla ice cream, topped with a kuromitsu black sugar syrup. The tofu has bite that contrasts texturally with its creamier vanilla accompaniment.
Both desserts avoid the trap of being too sweet. Test passed.
To finish is another serve of the gyokuro tea served as the first item on the menu. It's a nice poetic finish to the meal, whilst also acting to pare back and smooth over any residual sweetness from the dessert courses.
To round off, this was a highly anticipated experience, and easily ended up being a contender for the best meal of 2022. Innovation and technique collide in the best possible ways at this chef's table. The fact that this menu will continue to evolve and change with the seasons, whilst retaining a comparable quality is a truly impressive feat, and I cannot wait to revisit.

Foodie et al.

14/05/2023

19/01/2023

18/01/2023

17/01/2023

15/01/2023

14/01/2023

13/01/2023

12/01/2023

12/01/2023

11/01/2023

11/01/2023

09/01/2023

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