14/12/2022
Some memories
It's about Bandra :
It’s a lazy Sunday morn in Bandra. The villages of Ranwar; Chimbai; Chuim; Sherly Mala and Rajan have hardly woken up. The early risers are rushing to church for Sunday Mass at one of the 24 parishes that dot the ‘Queen of the Suburbs’. They are dressed in their Sunday best.
After mass, it was either a trek to the slaughter house, adjacent to the railway station (which is being spruced up once again) or the baker’s for some hard bread. Hearsch Bakery was handed over to Sophia Liberata Fernandes in1920s during the Great Britain War by its owner, German baker J. Hearsch. Today, the bakery is owned by Melvin D’Sa, however, the proprietorship remains with Fernandes who also used to run Connaught Bakery in Colaba Causeway. This food joint is still a big draw for its variety of bakery products like patties and puffs.
The day begins with music either over Radio Ceylon or the Christmas carols is playing on a turn table. The vinyl records are a collection or have been purchased either at ‘Rhythm House’ or ‘Furtado’s’. The sausages had to be ‘filled up’ and dried in the sun and the ‘guts’ had to be purchased from Bazaar Road.
Every house had a veranda or in today’s parlance a ‘balcony’. This space used to be occupied during leisure time by the elderly or other members of the family. During summer and on school holiday’s the veranda was used to play games like housie, snakes and ladders and carom.
Narrow lanes divided the houses. Most houses adopted the Portuguese architectural style. The bungalows were single storied structures with space for an attic to store grain, since the original residents were paddy owners. Most of the houses had open spaces either in the front or behind the house. The roofs were tiled with Mangalore tiles or ‘kaula’s’ which were local roof tiles which cupped in the centre. The wooden trellises were ornamented and the houses had plenty of antique furniture, which could be described as ‘grand’.
Each village had a ‘Cross’ or a ‘Grotto’ dedicated to Our Lady or Mother Mary. Rosaries used to be recited during the month of May. After the prayers, boiled gram and ‘sweet drink’ used to be served. Sometimes a piece of cake used to be served. The grotto was the central point for carol singing during Christmas.
The hamlets developed as close-knit communities. Bottle masala used to be made collectively. This was because it was difficult to get Maharashtrian women to pound the masala. They had to be booked well in advance for the task. Many a time, love affairs grew in the by-lanes of the village. Marriages, which lasted 7 days were solemnised in the 'parish' church. The match could be from neighbouring villages as well. The celebrations last for 7-days. The community used to be a support system – in death, accidents and misfortune or joyful occasions like weddings, births, FHC (first holy communions), confirmations, engagements et al.
Bandraites used to market either at Boran Road, Pali market or Bazaar Road. The term ‘big bazaar’ was often used while talking and was often heard. There were no on-line apps then. Christmas ingredients were purchased from ‘Mullchands’. His ‘boys’ knew what was needed and how much was needed. It saved a trip to Crawford Market. There was/is Cheap Jack, the quintessential store that stacked everything under one roof. Besides fresh vegetables from Bassein, the market had a beef or buff shop (as it is called today)
The East Indian community was the dominant inhabitants. The bungalows had large gardens which were manicured with various flowering plants and ornamental plants. At this time of year many seasonal flowering plants like Poinsettias bloomed.
Each of these bungalows had a piano. Many a home and the furniture was antique and belonged to a period. The collection was vast and varied. Weekends were reserved for parties and twist sessions. The owners spoke ‘Queens English’ amongst themselves and East Indian Marathi was reserved for the maids, gardeners and other menials coming to the house, through the ‘back door’.
Some of house owners spoke Portuguese. They drove cars. Their children were enrolled in either St. Xavier’s; Elphinstone College; Grant Medical or VJTI college/institution as these were considered ‘prestigious’ colleges.
Schools include St. Stanislaus which was founded in 1863, was exclusively for boys and Convent of St. Joseph, founded in 1780, was exclusively for girls. St Joseph’s had a European and Indian section. Although St. Andrew’s School was established in 1927, it was not popular with the crème de la crème. St Aloysius School, established in 1910, was perceived as another ‘parish’ school.
Even the roads have Catholic names – St. Paul’s Road; The Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount Road, Mount Carmel Road, St. Roque Road, St. Dominic Road, John the Baptist Road, St. Cyril Road, St. Leo Road, St. Martin’s Road, St Syril’s Road and St. Anthony’s Road. There was Manuel Gonsalves Road, Rebello Road, Veronica Road and D’Monte Park Road.
The Bandra Gymkhana was the only social club of the area. It was established in 1935. Most of the land belonged to the over 100-year-old Salcette Society founded in 1918, which was formed to retain the community’s ethos in Bandra and housed 199 building plots from St Paul’s Road encompassing Manuel Gonsalves Road, St. Syril’s Road, St. Anthony’s Road, St. John’s Road, St. Dominic’s Road, and D’Monte Park Road.
FAC Rebello convinced owners not to sell their properties but rather become shareholders and tenants in common. A strong believer in the co-operative movements, he founded ‘The Salsette Catholic Cooperative Housing Society’ in 1918 with the objective to acquire suitable plots of land for residential homes with the necessary amenities.
By July 1920, the 69 acres were acquired of which 1 acre 25 gunthas were given for a gymkhana and an East Indian Hall. Two acres were given for a convent, 4 acres to what became St. Andrew’s High School.
The churches included St Anne’s Church built in 1858, St. Andrew’s, one of the oldest churches in Mumbai, built by Portuguese Jesuits in 1575., The foundation of St. Peter’s Church was laid on April 12 in 1852; Mount Carmel Church was built in 1894 by Jesuit Missionaries and the Basilica of the Mount was built in 1760.The Chapel of Calvary, which belonged to the Fonseca family, as a private church was built in 1890 and the English Church along the Mount Road was built as First British Protestant Christian church in 1831.
The villages included Ranwar, which is a 400-year-old East Indian Catholic village and is one of the original twenty-four hamlets or ‘pakhadis’. It used to produce rice and was surrounded by paddy fields.
Chimbai Village is home to the fishing community called the ‘Kolis’. The community that lives here call themselves ‘Chimbaikars’. Chimbaikars have continued the tradition of fishing.
In 1940’s, Chuim Village had 70 houses. Chuim traded in agricultural produce and flowers. Primary schooling in the old days was done within the settlement in the midst of mango trees. Chuim used to be alive from the fishing activity that used to happen along with ‘Danda’ village.
Some shops have grown with the people. Jude Cold Storage was established in the year 1968, Cheap Jack on Hill Road, MacRonell’s Confectioners and the Roof Garden made its presence long before the arrival of Candies which is in the business for the last 25-years and is tastefully done up with Turkish tiles and a lot of Parisienne paintings and vintage posters. Blue Circle wafer shop next to ‘New Talkies’, Bandra Florists opposite the police station, the meatiest kababs available in Casbah and the paani puriwalla at Elco Arcade made up Bandra.
Bandra had the K B Bhabha Hospital (popularly known as Bhabha Hospital). It was established in 1914 and had 44 beds. It was developed by contributions made by Sir Cawasji Jahangir Ready Money dispensary and the Bhabha family. Many other Parsee families contributed its development from time to time. In 1950, it was merged with the Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai. Today, it is receiving a huge number of accident or disaster victims. In 1942, Holy Family Hospital was set up as a 10-bed private nursing home. Today the 268-bed is run by the Congregation Ursuline Sisters of Mary Immaculate. Prior to this the hospital was administered by the Medical Mission Sisters.
Lilavati Hospital, which began as 10 bed hospital, in 1977, today, has a total of 323 beds with one of the largest Intensive Care Units (ICUs), 12 Operation Theatres with advanced facilities, more than 300 consultants and manpower of nearly 1,800 employees. Lilavati Hospital and Research Centre attends to nearly 300 In-patients and 1,500 Out-patients daily.
The Tata Agiary on Hill Road was established in 1873 by Seth Nusserwanjee Ruttonjee Tata in memory of his wife. The Zoroaster or Zarathushtra image on its stained-glass panel, depicting the prophet between Edwardian motifs, once graced Tata Palace.
The Ervad Adarji Kharshedji Panthaky Agyari a.k.a. the Panthaky Agiary, was built on ‘Turner Road’, in Bandra in 1930. The road is named after E. C. Turner, President of the Municipality from 1903 to 1906. It was opened on March 1, 1913, by Sir Richard Lamb, member of council.
Bandra houses one of the best gated Parsi colonies in Mumbai – The Tata Blocks – meant for Parsis only. Within its three compounds, Tata Blocks has over 290 flats in 25 buildings. Nearly 70% of the occupants are senior citizens. The Tata Blocks are managed by the Bai Hirabai Tata Memorial Trust. Not to mention, the many beautiful bungalows that still survive and have not been undone by the bulldozer’s of the land sharks. Each house is remarkable and standout as living testimonies.
In 1962, Damian Pereira established ‘Damian Furniture’. Besides some exquisite pieces of furniture, the large French windows, displays the most striking and life size crib at Yule time. The Pereira's were a common surname in Bandra, and the saying went: 'Throw a stone and it sure would hit a pig, palm or Pereria'.
Unfortunately, while the pig and palm has disappeared over time, the Pereira remains and so does the adage amongst old timers of Bandra.
The Bandra Jama Masjid was constructed in 1720s by the Bakar Kasai Jamat. The Masjid is maintained by the Bombay and Bandra Bakar Kasai Jamat Mosques Trust, which is a 300-year-old public trust based in Mumbai and is said to be ‘the oldest trust in India’.
Bandra boast of the ‘Castella de Aguada’ (corruption of ‘Castelo da Aguada’, Portuguese for "Fort of the Waterpoint"). ‘Forte de Bandorá’ or Bandra Fort is what it is called. It is located at Land's End in Bandra and was built by the Portuguese in 1640 as a watchtower overlooking Mahim Bay, the Arabian Sea and the southern island of Mahim. The strategic value of the Fort was enhanced in 1661 after the Portuguese ceded the seven islands of Bombay that lay to the immediate south of Bandra to the English. The name indicates its origin as a place where fresh water was available in the form of a fountain ("Aguada") for Portuguese ships cruising the coasts in the initial period of Portuguese presence. The Fort lies over several levels, from sea level to an altitude of 24 metres (79 ft).
Finally, there is the historical Bandra Railway Station. This Grade-I heritage structure was opened on November 28, 1864. The magnificent heritage Bandra Station Building was built 24-years later in 1888. This is evident from an engraved inscription on a pillar arch on platform No. 2 and 3 on which rests the roof arch of the platforms. The station projects a distinctive 19th century architectural form with its cascade of roof line. The century old railway station has an excellent architectural blend of Victorian Gothic and the Vernacular style.
Bandra Police Station was established in 1940 and is said to be is one of the oldest police stations in Mumbai. It needs Kudos for managing the Annual Bandra Fair and crowds @ ‘Carters’, ‘reclamation’ and ‘Lands End’ peacefully.
The refrain that Bandra has changed for the worst may be true……. but the above shows Bandra has retained its past glory. True the roads have gotten crowded and there is no civic rule. Skyscrapers have over taken bungalows but nobody can take away from Bandra what it has to offer……
©️ Marcellus D’Souza
