19/11/2018
7:35am, I am leaving my room in a hurry; I’m a bit late. Yesterday, Tenzin Wangpo told me we were supposed to leave Kalimpong at 7:30am. As I close the door of my room, I meet Ani Choeje Pema, whose room is in front of mine. Talking with her, I learn she’s coming as well; she heard that there was some free seats in the car and wants to see how the construction works in Soreng is going. She just finished to eat breakfast and is not ready yet. Actually, the perspective for me to eat breakfast did not cross my mind yet, as it is served everyday at 7:30am down in Shedra.
Tenzin Wangpo arrives in the hall to call us and to go, then he eventually begins to talk with some acquaintances of him, who just stayed the night here. I can already feel we are not going to leave anytime soon.
After a bit, the both of us go outside. Now, we are waiting for Nyima Dorje - a monk from Shedra - he will be our driver for the day. He arrives, Anila doesn’t. Then Anila arrives, but he’s gone.
I take this opportunity to vanish as well. My empty stomach leads me to the last tee momos left by the monks in the dining hall. After eating half of a piece, I notice they’re all sitting in the car; I’m running back there. When I think we’re finally leaving, we actually have to wait again; another monk from Shedra is joining.
Now the car is full, I can be certain no one else will come.
So after what we can already call an adventure, the car’s engine starts. Music on and windows open, the road trip begins. It’s 8am. Actually, It’s not so late for India; it coud have been much worse. I don’t know how I even believed we were going to leave for 7:30am anyway. I should have known.
Our destination : Soreng and Takdha. Both situated between Kalimpong and Darjeeling, West Bengal, India.
In downtown Kalimpong, we stop for few minutes in order to buy some sweets for the little monks staying in Takdha Buddhist school. Those sweets are called Jelabi - an Indian sweet, made of coil of batter fried and steeped in syrup - this is the definition as found in the Oxford dictionary. If you’ve never tried them, those sweets are sweeter than sugar itself. Over the course of two years I’ve been travelling in Asia, I may have adapt to most of the customs here, in India. But this, I still don’t understand how they can eat it and appreciate it. Crazy.
Anyway.
We’re going for good now.
After approximatively an hour, we arrive to our first stop; Soreng.
I left Kalimpong with a scarf and a cardigan, but I realise they are of no use here, in Soreng; the sun is bright and the sky is blue. We can see Delo hill and Durphing monastery from here, both situated in Kalimpong, at each extremities of the town. It’s the first time I see it under this perspective. Breathtaking. Beautiful.
We are warmly welcome by Luka and Pori. With Tenzin Wangpo, the three of them are project’s managers. Luka is a monk who finished his studies at the Shedra in Kalimpong, and Pori, he is a former monk from Rumtek monastery.
We are told to seat for breakfast inside a bamboo hut. We are served 2 rotis, eggplants and a bread that looks like jalebi, but this time, not made of sugar, but made of dough; and these, I am living for them. The woman who made those, she has a smile brighter than today’s sun. All I can repeat in 'Danyawad’ - which means 'thank you' in Nepali - that’s the only thing I know.
As my plate is getting empty, Luka is making what he calls 'coffee'. He pours some powdered Nescafe into a french press, adds some water on it, some milk, a bit of sugar, closes the french press and then begins to make the filter of the french press go back and forth, again and again. I think he mistaken the beverage he is making for some Tibetan butter tea. I actually have a Barista diploma, so I kind of know what I’m talking about when it comes to coffee, but I’ve never seen this in my life before. I’m amazed. He fills up our cups; it is pretty tasty though. But as a french person, I can call this anything, but 'coffee'. Buddhism is my philosophy, but coffee is my religion.
I didn’t finish to swallow the last drop of my ' Luka’s coffee' yet, that we’re already on our way to have a look at the construction’s advancements.
While we are going down, Tenzin Wangpo shows me the accommodations of the workers. Toothbrushes are clamped on those bamboo-made room’s walls, beds are all attached one to another, and clothes are hanging on some strings nailed on each corners of the room. I take several pictures.
We walk few meters and then arrive to what will be the building designed for the nuns to reside. Everyone is here; the meeting officially starts. Time is not to chatters anymore. The conversation is all about concrete, plans, foundations, bricks and future.
After a tour of the land, a man living in the area arrives. He brought some rice and vegetables for us to bring to the little monks in Takdha. He brought 2 thankas as well; from that, a few minutes puja to bless those - performed by the monks present here - naturally begins.
I haven’t seen the whole land yet, so I follow the monks; they want to show me something. After going down what was probably a rice field before, here it is : a new truck; they acquired it not long ago. Everyone gets in, everyone poses with it for pictures. Time is to laughers, then time is to go again.
As I am going toward the car, Pori shows me the way to a house just above the land. I enter; a beautiful women in her 80’s warmly welcomes me. Tenzin Wangpo is already here. He introduces me to her; she is the former owner of the land. Her name? She answers by Mam’s. We don’t speak the same language, but as she says herself, the both of us smiling to each other, is far enough to get to know each other. Isn’t it even the greatest way to communicate? I kind of believe so. Sugar tea is served; behind the steam coming out from our cups of tea, she begins to talk.
So here is the story behind the project :
It all started back in 2005, when from his terrace in Galinga, while drinking tea, Shamarpa pointed out a land, situated on the mountain facing his garden. It was Mam’s land. He said that there, was the ideal location to build a place, a place for knowledge, dedicated to women. Some time later, he contacted Mam’s to share his wish to buy her land with her.
Seven years passed by, and despite many attractive propositions Mam’s received from potential buyers, she didn’t sell it to anyone. She had trust in Shamar Rinpoche’s word; she knew he was going to buy the land someday. She also knew this project would benefit many people, so she held on. Shamarpa came back in 2011; they concluded then the purchase.
Diwakar Nunnery Girl School’s project was officially launched.
Nothing really happened back then though, as Shamarpa already had a massive amount of projects to take care of. But, since 2017, it has been under the guidance of Karmapa and Jigme Rinpoche, and willing to fulfil Shamar Rinpoche’s wish, the construction started.
So, Diwakar Nunnery Girl School, what is it?
It is 2 acres ( about 8100m2 ) of land.
Land where the construction of several buildings is planned : a temple, classrooms, an office, a dining hall, dormitories, a residence for teachers, a guest house and few rooms for retreats.
On the educational aspect, it is a 10 years cursus for Tibetan Buddhist Philosophy studies that is planned to be established, similar to Kalimpong Shedra. It would be the first 10 years cursus for nuns that would be established in the Karma Kagyu lineage.
Handicraft classes will also be given there; outside women will be able to join the classes for their personal knowledge. From that, they could find jobs and offer themselves more confortable lives’s conditions, or they could simply just come to learn new skills.
The idea is to give free education and accommodations for both nuns and girls coming from remote areas of the Himalayan region. A place for women of all ages, lay or monastic. A place to share.
The story comes to its end, and food is already on the table. I had my second breakfast two hours ago, but as she offers lunch so nicely, I can’t say no. The 'dal bhat' is succulent. She gives me some more rice before I even finish my plate; that’s tradition here, no way to escape. Tea is served again. We leave the table; I take several pictures to capture the moment. Time for goodbyes.
We find ourselves in the car again, navigating between the tea gardens.
We finally reach Takdha. Actually, on the first place, the real purpose of our trip was to go there.
Takdha Buddhist School is a school that opened in 2002; it is dedicated to the education of little monks. On a 5 years cursus, they study basic Tibetan Buddhist Philosophy, Tibetan grammar, Karma Kagyu rituals, Nepali (which is the local language) and English, with the objective to get sufficient knowledge to be able to join Shedra in Kalimpong for higher studies, studies that last for 10 years.
Nowadays, there is approximatively 7 teachers for 80 students in Takdha; all are from Himalayan remote areas.
We arrive there - on a quiet Saturday afternoon - dozen of shoes are in front of the TV room, we can hear the melody of gyalings coming from the temple - few monks are practicing to improve their skills - it’s still very calm. Not all the staff members are here as it is holiday, but still, we meet Jigme and Jinpa Rabgye; they are two monks who finished their studies in Kalimpong Shedra. I already know Jinpa Rabgye; I’m happy to see him here, and glad to meet Jigme.
The smallest monk come to us as well, he doesn’t wear a monk robe yet. He recognises Tenzin Wangpo, the two are very close. Tenzin Wangpo takes some pencils out from his bag; the little boy, all excited, begins to draw few lines. Then, another curious little monk comes, another joins us, and again another one appears. We are soon surrounded by all the smallest monks. They start a drawing competition so they’re all very focused on what they’re doing. While the little ones are too young and too concentrated to even notice I’m here, my presence keep the older ones away. I’ve been told they are really shy whenever westerners and tourists come and visit. They will be more outgoing a bit later though.
The sun begins to set. So before it gets too dark, the monks prepare everything to take a group picture. Some of the kids changed their clothes; they put their monk’s robe on, all trying to look their best. As fast as they arrived to pose for the picture, most of them left already. They’re back playing volleyball behind the main building.
I stay a little more with the little monks to wait for the drawing competition’s results. The winner is the little monk on the first picture; he left happy with a hundred Indian rupees note; all the other participants left with tens of rupees though, far enough to buy some candies in little shops down the village.
Then, Jinpa Rabgye leads us to the dining hall; I begin to eat my second lunch, only 2 hours after my first lunch. Again, I can’t say no. I’ve rarely been so full, but they cooked food for us all morning. Fortunately, food is delicious.
With a full stomach, I climb staircases that lead me to the ground where the monks are playing volleyball. It’s dusk, they’ve probably been playing all day, but still, they give all they have and play pretty well I might say.
Someone passed away in the village. As they are playing, some other monks urge them to stop what they are doing; the villagers cross the road in front of the school to bring the deceased person to the place of cremation. The time seems still and the atmosphere silent. As soon as they leave, the game starts again; time is back to motion, laughers echoes in the forest; life is back. I only witness such moments in India; the country of the contrasts, the place where all emotions can arise in a single moment.
We’re leaving. The music we played on our way to Soreng and Takdha, give place to mantras and silence. Ashang is sitting in the back of the car - he is a monk from Kalimpong Shedra - he stayed few days in Takdha and decided to come back with us. The six of us squeezed in this narrow car, we’re watching the sunset. As the body is tired, the road seems bumpier, the other car’s lights, seem harsher. Luckily, Nyima Dorje is a wonderful driver and makes it seem smoother than it is supposed to be. Ashang is incredible; he doesn’t complain. Usually, everyone gets sick when sitting in the back of this kind of car; he didn’t even show any sign of tiredness during the whole trip back. In the car, as some eyes are getting closed, I am trying to digest everything that happened on this intense excursion; that’s a lot to remember. This journey was as short as it was rich; I met amazing people and I’ve been to amazing places. This whole trip was so inspiring; days like this are to cherish.
We arrive back to Shedra at 6:30pm.
Our day trip in West Bengal came to its end.
I go to bed with sore muscles but with wonderful images in my mind.
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