03/10/2026
Certainly not the most exciting photo in the world, but a welcome sight.
A bone-jarring ride from Dharamshala and now I’ve just arrived late at night in Amritsar to find my hotel double booked.
So a couple of hairy back-of-motorbike-rides in true Indian fashion with all of my luggage stacked on the drivers lap, weaving amongst the street dogs that get very territorial at night, and dont like the smell of westerners - and I’ve arrived at ‘The Pilgrim Hotel’, after trying several others.
John Bunyan understood my life well, I think!
I’ve only really got one day here -Sunday- so it’ll be The Golden Temple (free sit down lunch with 200,000 other people (I’ll make a donation). Jallianwala Bagh, and then the fantastic Wagah Border Ceremony, late afternoon.
When I set out from UK I’d hoped to be crossing to Amritsar from Pakistan at Wagah, but the shootings at Pahalgam last year shut the India-Pakistan border, hence my detour through Kashmir and Ladakh and then down the stunningly beautiful Leh-Manali road, then the 11 hour bone-shaker to Dharamshala and the truly god-awful Dharamshala-Amritsar road.
I hope my camera and laptop haven’t been shaken to death.
Hotel has just delivered tea to my room - now all of a sudden I feel like civilisation has returned - not quite days of the Raj - and I’m not really comfortable with being called ‘sir’ but I’ll do my penance tomorrow at Jallianwala Bagh by showing some atavistic contrition.