Emma Freeman Portraits

18/05/2026

I forgot a day - day 11

Day 11 Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis - all the surfaces I have walked on in the last 10 days. I ended up in a natural thermal foot spa - there were 2 Brazilians when I arrived I brought along another 30 Goooooood sleep. Started in wrong direction - but was promptly put right thanks to a friend. I have FINALLY started to feel hungry. A massive influx of perigrinos are arriving. You feel a rising tide of energy. Formed groups burst out laughing, the Brazilians wipe the floor with giggles and shouts. It’s joyous. My body demands a day off, and, it can’t happen, otherwise I miss my flight …

A few months back, I had an idea and shared it with Marco. Imagine if you revisit every former lover at each ‘albergue’ hostel/b&b and have diner with them. Listening how their lives had panned out and what, if any, influence or memories you had imprinted on their lives. Marco’s comment ……. ‘Well, you wouldn’t have enough to fill the list and I would need more Albergues…..’ I shall leave that thought with you.

By midday I needed to resort to music - Tift Merrit and pharma drugs. I walked alone and my mind went everywhere. I smelt the beautiful loam soil, laughed at all the cockerels in backyards. I find their presence strangely comforting. My village in Devon BANS them. We really do have issues in the UK.
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Disclosure 2 - about self. I was tearful and so happy back to be in this climate. The decade in Switzerland had a long lasting effect on me and my arthritis is 90% better here. I only had 2 uncomfortable days (the day of rain and post rain).

Shall be leaving UK after our house sales. The calling is even stronger to be back in Europe. Then again 3 generations of my grandmother’s family lived in Antibes - so it’s the dna calling.

Whether fit or frail, this is the most glorious gift you can give to yourself. 3 of 4 of our kids have done this - and soon hopefully Kit shall. More importantly, it’s a gift for your kids to sense themselves on this mad beautiful planet we so need to protect and understand. The sense of kin, care, awareness and kindness that grows for your fellow perigrinos is a lesson we are losing so fast in our daily lives.

17/05/2026

17/05/2026

Addendum and then it’s over and out - I’ve been very chatty and it’s time to stop. So- here is this ornate beyond ORNATE cathedral. I had good intentions, to hide a golden shell for Mama. Reality seems to make a mockery of me. The first issue is honestly quite understandable (I just didn’t think). So, Marco orders to bottle of bubbles, and those who know me well, I’m utterly incapable of drinking a bottle solo - so - I did the next best thing, popped it in my rucksack to share with precious new-found Camino friends, and off I went to mass. It was summarily confiscated by the cathedral security guard. I fibbed and said it was for my birthday. He agrees to hide it behind one of the big entrance doors (I managed to retrieve it after the mass). So ……… this is where I think if there is a god, he had a little fun…..during the mass, I noticed my neighbour, mid70’s, whose addiction to Botox sadly was a little obvious, was having issues getting up and down off the floor. There were no remaining seats, too many pilgrims arrived this evening. So, I quite rightly offered my arm, to help her off the floor for the 3rd hymn. To my utter horror, she was so strong, she pulled me over, and without any exaggeration, god is my witness! I ended up in the crotch of a male canadian or American pilgrim. There are truly no further words I can add to this……… these have been some of the most memorable, heartfelt and utterly hilarious snippets of my life ! Thank you friends for listening and commenting. At times your words carried so much feeling and help. I am retuning to the UK in 36 hrs and the life I left behind. With the house for sale it’s all quite unsettling, but, these 320+km shall sustain me for many many weeks to come. ###

17/05/2026

Day 13 - not quite broken …… but here. Off to mass in 1/2hr. I shall find somewhere for Mama. No words today. Just huge smiles.
I found Sisyphus (much discussed during walk) and the cockerels made me smile every day. The herbs I wore in my hair for the last day.

16/05/2026

Day 12 Caldras de Reis to Padron. 18.77km. Penultimate day. It’s cold ! I lost my s*xy support socks and had a simply dreadful meal last night. Happy to say appetite has returned and I can’t get enough. I have been thinking how few men and women of the cloth have been present here. I have met a New York Father and his flock. Occasionally hear Gregorian chants from people’s rucksacks along with blasting rap whizzing by with the cyclists. Not a happy mix of transport, feet and Uber men in Lycra ! It all seems to fade away these thoughts when you just keep moving forward. Some carry pebbles/stones to represent grief or loss. I left a pebble in memory of my father. I was a disappointment to him, although he respected my love and care of my children. He taught me to love the planet, ignited my passion for botany and deep trust in animals. My mother ….. well I have a golden shell, this could take a few caminos to settle her place, but I would love to pop her somewhere in the cathedral in Santiago. Hidden on a hinge of a magnificent door. She was a woman of faith, of which I’m not sure. I have an admission. I had to raid the housekeeping, I just couldn’t hack the hostels - I’m really not that capable !! So tonight in a dreamy room with all the mod cons. Guess what I did ………. Flooded the bathroom. I was soooooooo exhausted, I sat in the shower and meditated. I may have shrunk a bit, but my bottom managed to still block the drain ! It’s fascinating the speed with which a body can move in panic, even when beyond exhausted !! I’m off to find some calories. It’s our wedding anniversary today. 34 years !!! How on earth did we manage that !?!?!

16/05/2026

Walking - listening - marvelling - feet holding up. Spirit sometimes lags

16/05/2026

Day 10. Redondela to Pontevedra -20.19 km. A very good day! (With my “getting lost” I think I had walked about 250km so far. That’s insane !

I have managed to find two lost items so feeling quite pleased with myself and this evening I actually have a bidet and a plug in my bathroom …..doea anyone realise just how exciting this is for me?

Chamomile tea bags on eyes - sore for some reason.

I passed through a small town called Souriat. It was quite extraordinary, I had goosebumps everywhere and I felt lightheaded and felt very emotional, I have no idea why it was such a stronjg feeling ….goosebumps ‘Gaensehaut’.

People discuss the most intimate aspects of their live. It is quite extraordinary; they talk about relationships, s*x lives, or lack there of. Talk about their parents, they talk about their guilt, they talk about what they can’t talk about ….it is actually fascinating. I have found many young women come and find me and I listen it is quite extraordinary.

I have just understood something. scientifically there is something called pilgrim or Camino anorexia. Your body has strange ways of adapting to this sheer madness and digestion isn’t high on on the agenda of homeostasis. So, hunger doesn’t make itself known. I have had to remind myself to eat - I can’t wait to feel hungry ! Although, I am shrinking ! Last note before I sleep. sandals came out to spare a forming blister - horrors - WITH SOCKS !!

12/05/2026

Day 7&8 O Serrallo to Baiona - 15km and today Baiona to Vigo 27km cos got a little lost

I couldn’t write yesterday as I took most of the evening washing and battling with trying to dry my clothes. Can you imagine, I now get excited at the sight of a heater in my room - to dry clothes with ! Hairdryers even better.

My dear friend, with whom I shared an office with back at the Red Cross in GVA in the mid’80’s , asked me if the Spanish were as friendly as the Portuguese. To date, I felt much more welcomed and more genuine smiles prior to crossing the border to Spain. The Pilgrim infrastructure seems to lean more towards pilgrims the other side of the border. So to some home truths. I have outdone myself on the “losing” front. The worst being today. I was with my 2 ambidextrous walking companions. One being a Swiss architect and the other a German business strategist. Not joking, they are seriously both ambidextrous. I was struggling a little today, and I saw some free offerings for pilgrims. Coffee, biccies etc. I gladly enjoyed them and left my
Credencial (Pilgrim Passport) on the side by the stamps. This is an essential, inexpensive booklet used to collect stamps (sellos) along the Camino de Santiago, verifying your journey for access to pilgrim albergues (hostels) and obtaining the Compostelacertificate in Santiago. 2 failed attempts thus far to get it back to me ……fingers cross a pilgrim will call my number.

It gets worse, I’ve left my PJ’s, my only long sleeved top and my lovely silk eye mask. Now it gets serious for any woman over the age of 60 !! My flipping HRT - but then again, as my only symptom was acute flushes, all I do hear is bloody sweat !! Marco ! i know I’m hopeless, but, I haven’t lost the children yet.

10/05/2026

Day 6. 31.2 kms. I did it, and, I was genuinely surprised. I woke up with the sound of rain then saw this little chap, in the first image from my bedroom window. Another single room ! Took the ‘ Pilgrim boat’ across the straight, which is effectively the Portuguese/ Spanish border. Painkillers were needed but I am happily resting with NO blisters. I learnt another trick last night. I asked the B&B if they could pop the heating unit on, you know the ones with AC and a flip mobile edge. She kindly put it up to 23 and with the help of my walking poles, I set up a drying line under the hot air - my clothes were beautifully dried by the morning. I also pick a few herbs to keep me going, ie, the mint and hold it between my poles and hands. A stimulant to keep me going, and the compounds are absorbed by the skin. Played cards with a Dane and an American but I couldn’t fathom the rules, as I felt a little delerious (my sale by date is 25km). However !!! I figured out how to use the laundrette - now I haven’t done this since I was a student in Lausanne :). I MUST sleep.

09/05/2026

DAy 5 - it started with promise ……then I got wet. Viana do Costela to Vila Praia de Ancora 18.67km. My sleep deprivation slapped me in the face followed by the rain. Today I walked alone and got in a muddle with the poncho. I’m SUCH a novice ! Someone tell me how to dry clothes when it’s raining - I’m hopeless ! I did use a microwave for my socks in Scotland last week, worked jolly well until I burnt the2nd pair (purportedly 100% wool?! - they melted). The snails crossing the paths made me smile. Many people walked through the towns and I stayed on the coast, so obviously more exposed. I saw few people and started fantasising about massages and cosy warm fires. I slept like a goddess and I’m sure I’ll be strong enough for the 31.32km, that said, I’m still a little nervous. I cross into Spain on a small Pilgrim boat from Caminah tomorrow am. It will take me 11/2hrs to reach the crossing. When you order a coffee and separate whisky here - the staggering amount makes me giggle. Onwards and upwards to 🇪🇸