06/05/2026
Before I start on the descriptive bit, a bit of peripheral information to enrich your lives. An apocryphal tale records that, in 1915 or thereabouts, a hundred or so fierce-looking soldiers were seen boarding a train in London bound for Dover, where they were due to be ferried across the English Channel to Calais and thence to the allied front line. One of the officials at the station, curious about the foreign-sounding accents of the soldiers, asked one of them where he was from. "Ross-shire", replied the soldier. "Russia?", queried the official. "Aye, Ross-shire" came the reply. As you might imagine, that bit of info went like a rocket from mouth to mouth and eventually reached the gentlemen of the Fourth Estate, as the Press were known in those days, generating the headline: "SHOCK HORROR PROBE: RUSSIANS IN LONDON!! Reports of snow seen on their boots! More details on pages 2-16, 18-32 and back page." (or something like that, anyway). What the solders were, it transpired, were two companies of the Seaforth Highlanders based in barracks near Inverness.
Anyway, I digress - which, as successions of undergraduate civil engineering students will doubtless testify, is something I'm prone to do from time to time. So, without more ado about nothing in particular, on with the story before I forget what I was supposed to be talking about:
Ross-shire is, by common usage and by virtue of their very different topologies, divided into two parts: Wester Ross and Easter Ross. Wester Ross is mountainous, spectacular and extremely photogenic, whereas Easter Ross .. er .. isn't. It's possible that I'm doing Easter Ross a severe disservice with this description because, with the exception of a brief diversion once to Tesco in Dingwall to get milk, I haven't actually been there. But, for any denizens of Easter Ross who are reading this and are a bit miffed with me, I promise I'll get round to visiting your neck of the woods in due course and will shower your beauty spots with appropriately fulsome praise.
Like many cartographic features involving this sort of thing, nobody is quite sure exactly where the border between the two bits is. Is it, as is sometimes cited, on the west/east watershed running through the county, or is it, as irreverently suggested by your humble servant, where the scenery starts to get uninteresting? As previously, help is at hand with the another Williams-type rule of thumb, namely: the border follows the A835 between Strathpeffer and Ullapool with, when travelling north west, everything on the left being in Wester Ross and everything on the right being in Easter Ross - UNLESS, and it's an important UNLESS, the scenery on the right is mountainous and spectacular, such as Loch Glascarnoch and the Beinn Dearg massif, in which case it's deemed (by me!) to be in Wester Ross.
Wester Ross is further divided by the long narrow gash of Loch Maree running from Poolewe at its north west end to Kinlochewe at its south east end. The area to the north east of the loch is known, with good reason, as "The Great Wilderness" since it's almost totally devoid of human habitation, more mountainous than most comparative areas, and accessible only by long and rough walk-ins from the peripheral main roads. To the south west of Maree is Gairloch, the ever popular Glen Torridon with its tryptych of easily accessible Munros (mountains over 3,000 ft in height) - Beinn Eighe, Liathach and Beinn Alligin - Shieldaig, the Applecross Peninsular and, last but not least, Plockton and Loch Carron.
And so to the image: It's the mighty Liathach (trans: "The Grey One") viewed from Loch Clair on a calm February morning. Can't really think of anything else to say about it because it rather speaks for itself.