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In the Lactuca genus (Asteraceae family), wild lettuce, most commonly Lactuca serriola (prickly lettuce) and Lactuca vir...
07/04/2026

In the Lactuca genus (Asteraceae family), wild lettuce, most commonly Lactuca serriola (prickly lettuce) and Lactuca virosa (o***m lettuce or bitter lettuce) among others, are biennials (or sometimes annuals) related to cultivated lettuce.

Most people do not consider Wild Lettuce a welcome addition to the garden. It is a hardy "w**d" that thrives in disturbed areas like roadsides, vacant lots, gardens, fields, and even cracks in pavement, It prefers full sun and can tolerate most soils from dry and full of gravelly to more moist conditions. It is widespread in North America, Europe, and other areas and is considered highly invasive in many places due to its prolific seeding.

Some people eat it young, as a green, and others use it medicinally.

More here:
https://www.gilasplace.com/blog/2026/7/wild-lettuce

Nothing coming out of the clouds but the skyline sure lit up nice.
06/12/2026

Nothing coming out of the clouds but the skyline sure lit up nice.

The ticks were already congregating on the deer by May 11, 2026.
06/12/2026

The ticks were already congregating on the deer by May 11, 2026.

My very non traditional garden is running amuck. Veggies will likely be late here this year but it's been a busy spring;...
06/12/2026

My very non traditional garden is running amuck. Veggies will likely be late here this year but it's been a busy spring; just means it will cooler when I have to start all the canning. Have cut a few small heads of broccoli, eaten my share of strawberries and now raspberries are coming in. Still eating last year's harvest of carrots, beans, tomatoes, and still have plenty of squash in the freezer. I can wait. :-)

06/10/2026

Right now, mid-June, female squash bugs are laying egg clusters on your squash and zucchini leaves — small bronze-copper ovals tucked along the leaf veins in neat groups of twelve to twenty.
You have ten days before they hatch. After that, the math turns against you.

- The Eggs — Your 10-Day Window
Oval, bronze-copper colored, laid in tight V-shaped clusters along leaf veins — usually on the underside but sometimes on top or on stems. Each female lays multiple clusters over several weeks. One missed cluster hatches into a feeding mob of grey nymphs that drains the plant from below while you're looking at the top.

- The Nymphs — Gregarious and Fast
Newly hatched nymphs are tiny, pale grey, and feed in tight groups. They're more vulnerable than adults but they hide in leaf folds, stem crevices, and under debris. By the time you see wilting, dozens of nymphs have been feeding for days. Neem and insecticidal soap work on nymphs with direct contact — but direct contact means finding them first.

- The Adults — Nearly Impossible to Kill with Spray
Adult squash bugs have a hard shield-shaped exoskeleton that resists most contact insecticides — including organic options. They're fast, they hide, and they fly. Spraying adults is an expensive way to feel productive while accomplishing almost nothing.

- The Fix — 30 Seconds Per Plant, Once a Week
Run your thumb along the underside of every leaf. Check the veins — that's where the eggs are. Crush the clusters with your fingernail or press a strip of duct tape over them and pull the eggs off. It takes thirty seconds per plant. One weekly walk through the bed removes more squash bugs than any spray sold for this pest.

- The Night Trap — Board Method
Lay a piece of cardboard, a wooden shingle, or a flat board on the soil at the base of each plant in the evening. Adult squash bugs hide under flat objects overnight. Flip the board in the morning and crush or drop them into soapy water. Repeat nightly during peak season.

- The Timing Matters
In most zones, egg-laying begins when squash plants start to vine — mid-June through July. Start checking BEFORE you see damage. By the time leaves wilt and brown at the edges, the population is established and mechanical control alone won't catch up.

One weekly walk beats every spray. The eggs are the battle. Win it there.

06/10/2026

Some native plants don't just attract pollinators. Specific specialists — certain bees, and certain butterflies — can't survive without them. Eight blooming in your yard right now:

🌿 What each one actually feeds:

- Spiderwort — opens at dawn, closes by midday; mining bees work it in that morning window.
- Wild bergamot (Monarda) — feeds bumblebees, plus its own specialist, the Monarda sweat bee, into July.
- Purple coneflower — a magnet for sweat bees, including the metallic green ones, through midsummer.
- Black-eyed Susan — visited by a long list of native bees.
- Wild lupine — the only plant Karner blue caterpillars can eat. No lupine, no Karner blue.
- Penstemon — draws specialist mason and leafcutter bees.
- Butterfly w**d (Asclepias) — a milkw**d: monarch caterpillars depend on it, and it pulls in a crowd of native bees.
- Blue wild indigo (Baptisia) — the larval host for the wild indigo duskywing.

Plant a generalist garden and the generalists show up. Plant these, and the specialists that have nowhere else to go finally do.

Don't throw out leftover fruits. Make juice because it's super easy, tastes awesome, and a lot better for you than store...
06/10/2026

Don't throw out leftover fruits. Make juice because it's super easy, tastes awesome, and a lot better for you than store bought. You control the sugar and NO artificial dyes or preservatives. Leftover cranberries (whole, fresh) from Thanksgiving came out great! One bag made 7 pints and cost me about $1.50. You can do the same with other fruits as well.

1. Wash the fruit well.
2. Wash and sterilize jars (leave them in boiling water about ten minutes)
3. Fill the jars 1/3 of the way with fruit and add sugar. I don't like juices super sweet so I use about 1 teaspoon per pint (or less, depending on the fruit) of sugar or honey per quart.
4. Fill jar with filtered water (You don't have to buy bottled water but chlorine from tap water isn't good. (If you have to use tap water, let it set out overnight for the chlorine to evaporate)
5. Wipe jar rims dry and place lids and rims (finger) tight, not cranked on.
6. Place jars in a pot of water with a couple inches of water OVER the top of the jars.
7. Bring to a boil and rapidly boil for 10 minutes.
8. Remove jars from water bath and allow to rest and cool on a cloth on the counter.
9. Once cooled place in the pantry for at least two weeks before drinking. The longer it sits, the fruitier it gets.

No waste here either because the chickens love the fruit I strain out when I open it.

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Coulterville, IL
62237

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