02/09/2026
The Laos Elephant Festival was set up to honour cultural traditions and celebrate Laos’ relationship with these magnificent animals. In reality, what I witnessed was deeply distressing, culminating in a large parade showcasing traditional dances alongside the “impressive” skills the elephants had been forcefully trained to perform.
Each day, elephants would do laps around the field carrying festival-goers on heavy chairs in the sun. When not giving rides, they were taken into crowds to perform tricks and have photos taken, with many people treating them as objects for entertainment rather than the intelligent, sentient beings they are. Come evening, the elephants involved in the main parade would be taken out for practice runs before returning to the crowds.
As the days went on, their exhaustion and distress became increasingly difficult to ignore. We saw wounds on their heads from bull hooks, alongside animals that looked visibly exhausted and withdrawn.
What shocked me most was how young some of the elephants and mahouts involved were. Baby elephants who had only recently undergone phajaan (the process of breaking an elephant’s spirit to make it submissive to humans) had visible wounds and scars across their bodies. Some of the mahouts looked no older than their mid-teens. I imagine that, for some, the choices available to them are shaped by circumstances beyond their control.
Elephants have been part of Lao culture and livelihoods for generations. But as those industries declined and regulations changed, many mahouts were left without the livelihoods that had historically supported both their families and their elephants. Tourism became one of the few remaining ways to earn an income.
Understanding that history doesn't make the suffering acceptable, but it does make the situation more complicated than simply blaming the individuals involved. There can be genuine bonds, while, at the same time, those elephants are being subjected to cruel practices that cause fear, pain and distress.
Calling something a “cultural tradition” shouldn't mean we stop asking whether it is right.